CULTURAL SIMILARITIES. "Parallel Worlds," an exhibit featuring ceremonial robes constructed by Ainu artists of Hokkaido along with those of Native American tribes of the Pacific Northwest, is on display at the Portland Japanese Garden through June 28. Pictured are an Attush robe (left) by artist Sanae Ogawa and a Kaparamip robe by artist Satomi Kato. (Photos courtesy of the Portland Japanese Garden)

From The Asian Reporter, V19, #23 (June 16, 2009), page 13.

By Allison Rupp

In celebration of the 50th anniversary of Portland and Sapporo, Japan as sister cities, the Portland Japanese Garden is exploring parallels between the two regions in the ancient art of ceremonial robes. The exhibit, entitled "Parallel Worlds," features robes constructed by Ainu artists of Hokkaido along with those of Native American tribes of the Pacific Northwest.

Ainu artist Sanae Ogawa appeared at the exhibit’s opening in a vibrant purple and blue kimono created with fabric from five generations of family kimono. For Ogawa, who hails from the island of Hokkaido, robe-making is an important activity among family members. Each of the robes on display in "Parallel Worlds" was created by Ogawa’s sister, daughter, niece, or Ogawa herself.

The process of making each robe takes almost a year, said Ogawa, speaking in Japanese as curator Diane Durston translated.

"I begin by stripping bark from a tree in my garden to make the base of the robe. Then comes the appliqué, then the embroidery. Each step is very slow, very careful," she said.

This type of robe, called an Attush robe, is woven from bast fibers split from an elm tree, then rolled as thin as possible between the artist’s fingers. Another style of robe on display is the Ruunpe, constructed by sewing square-edged patterns of silk, calico, or muslin cloth over the robe’s base.

Ogawa and her family, who have formed their own artist’s collective dedicated to the authentic reproduction of Ainu robes, spent months researching the traditional patterns of the robes through photographs and descriptions in museums. Little information remains about the style of the ancient robes, one outcome of the forced assimilation of the Ainu people into mainstream Japanese culture.

Since the Ainu were hunter-gatherers, the designs on one robe represent a pathway back home, with numerous parallel lines snaking back and forth in a maze-like design. Another style features swirls and curlicues that evoke the beaks and claws of birds, or whirlpools on the edge of a river. These designs stem from the Ainu’s close relationship with nature, a trait they shared with their native counterparts across the Pacific.

The Ravenstail Indian robes in the exhibit contain within their designs symbols of their reverence for ocean and river life, including starfish and the backbones and gills of salmon. The colors in the Native American robes are more muted than the Ainu, with thin lines and diamonds embroidered in black thread on a white background. Tiny hints of yellow or turquoise stand out only on closer examination of the wooly fabric.

Artist Ann Smith, who formerly served as chief of the Kwanlin Dun First Nation, explained that while any design can be created by the artist, she prefers to use traditional designs that can be passed down and woven by future artists.

The idea for the exhibit originated with Durston, who was attracted to Ainu robes while living in Japan. The title "Parallel Worlds" refers not only to the similarities in the two regions’ robes but also to the Ainu belief in spiritual and secular worlds existing side by side.

"I’ve wanted to do this exhibit for 12 years," Durston said. "With the 50th anniversary of the Portland-Sapporo relationship happening, it finally seemed like the perfect time for the exhibit."

"Parallel Worlds" can be viewed through June 28 at the Portland Japanese Garden, located at 611 S.W. Kingston Avenue, above Washington Park. The garden is open noon to 7:00pm on Monday and 10:00am to 7:00pm Tuesday through Sunday. To learn more, call (503) 223-1321 or visit <www.japanesegarden.com>.