Asian Reporter web extra, December 3, 2022
Crew members train for the Hoki Mai challenge — a voyage that covers
about 300 miles across a stretch of the Pacific Ocean in a large canoe —
in Rapa Nui, a territory that is part of Chile and is better known as
Easter Island, on November 24, 2022. The canoe voyage of 12 crew members
seeks to raise awareness about the importance of women in the world,
urge protection of the environment, and celebrate the union of the
islands of Polynesia. (AP Photo/Esteban Felix)
Polynesian pride: Three-day canoe voyage in
By María Teresa Hernández
The Associated Press
December 3, 2022
RAPA NUI, Chile (AP) — The causes are worthy, the course is daunting
— almost about 300 miles across a stretch of the Pacific Ocean in a
It’s the Hoki Mai Challenge, which started Saturday in Rapa Nui, a
territory in the Pacific that is part of Chile and is better known as
The event consists of a canoe voyage in which nine Rapanuis, two
Chileans, and one Hawaiian seek to raise awareness about the importance
of women in the world, urge protection of the environment, and celebrate
the union of the islands of Polynesia.
The 12 athletes have been training six days a week since
mid-September, preparing for a voyage that will take them from Rapa Nui
to Motu Motiro Hiva, another island in the mid-Pacific that belongs to
"It won’t be easy," said Gilles Bordes, coordinator of Hoki Mai.
"Three days and three nights."
Bordes moved to Rapa Nui earlier this year, but he has lived in
Polynesia for three decades, devoting much of his time to rowing.
"I am very grateful to all the Tahitians for teaching me their
culture and how to row," he said. "I came from France, but they accepted
me and allowed me to share this with them."
Hoki Mai pursues three goals.
The first is to honor canoeing in Polynesia, which has been practiced
The second relates to the environment. Motu Motiro Hiva — also called
Salas y Gómez — is an uninhabited island, but its land and the
surrounding waters have been affected by pollution.
The third purpose relates to gender equality. The team will carry a
small female moai — one of the ancient statues that Easter Island is
famous for — to raise awareness about the importance of women in the
world. A bigger statue — carved by a local artisan for Hoki Mai -- will
be taken to Motu Motiro Hiva in March.
During the voyage, rowing is done in relays: groups of six will row
for about four hours, then be replaced by the next shift. Those who need
to rest will do so in a Chilean navy ship escorting the canoe.
"The training has been hard, especially for those of us who are less
experienced," said Konturi Atán, a 36-year-old historian.
Atán said a crewmember invited him to join a few months ago while he
was out paddling a one-person canoe.
"He told me: I need you to come on Tuesdays and Thursdays to help us;
we’re lacking enough people to train," said Atán, who rowed with them,
shared a meal, then said "yes" to joining the challenge.
On training days, they often started before dawn to get accustomed to
the darkness they will face during much of the Hoki Mai.
"We practiced rowing at night, we practiced getting little sleep, we
practiced training every day. Gym, rowing, gym, rowing, gym, rowing.
Except for Sunday, when we rest," Atán said.
Spirituality and sacredness are pervasive in Rapa Nui, including with
cooking rituals and songs about their history. Sports also incorporates
Several days before the trip, the canoe built for Hoki Mai was
blessed with an "umu," which involves cooking underground with hot
stones in a sacred ceremony.
"We did it with a white chicken," Atán said. "It is something
spiritual. Eating a piece is a connection to our roots."
Their cultural legacy is also linked to the moai, like the one
they’ll carry with them to Motu Motiro Hiva.
The moai are perhaps the most recognizable symbols of Rapa Nui.
Carved in volcanic stone between 1000 and 1600 C.E from the slopes of
the Rano Raraku volcano, they represent the ancestors of the various
clans whose descendants still inhabit Rapa Nui. They were placed on
ceremonial platforms called "ahus" with their torsos facing the island
to provide protection. They attracted international attention in October
after a fire damaged dozens of them.
Ahus were built in some other places in Polynesia, but moais are
exclusive to Rapa Nui. The bond between neighboring islands is still
strong. Rapa Nui, Tahiti, Hawai‘i, and even New Zealand share language
similarities and other features.
Now, with Hoki Mai, there’s also an expectation that those ties
expand beyond Polynesia. That’s why the Rapanui and the Hawaiian will
row with two "continental" Chileans, as the locals identify those who
come from the Chilean mainland in South America.
"The idea of the canoe is also union," said Gilles Bordes. "Six
people doing the same thing to go forward. The union of cultures. That
is why people from Chile are going to row, to show that together we can
move towards a better future."
Associated Press religion coverage receives support through the AP’s
collaboration with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly
Endowment Inc. The AP is solely responsible for this content.
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