
AROMATIC ADDITION. Lemongrass is a reed-like plant that grows as a thin,
firm two-foot stalk with a small bulb at the base. It varies in color from
pale yellow to very light green. True to its name, lemongrass has a
pleasantly assertive lemon taste and aroma. Pictured is a scrumptious
helping of Lemongrass Chicken Stir-fry. (AP Photo/Matthew Mead)
From The Asian Reporter, V22, #16 (August 20, 2012), page 13.
Lemongrass: What it is and how to use it
By J.M. Hirsch
AP Food Editor
It may look and sound like a weed, but lemongrass actually is one of the
most important ingredients in Southeast Asian cooking.
It also happens to have the power to transform the all-American foods you
love.
Lemongrass is a reed-like plant that grows as a thin, firm two-foot stalk
with a small bulb at the base. It varies in color from pale yellow to very
light green. True to its name, lemongrass has a pleasantly assertive lemon
taste and aroma. It generally is used one of three ways — whole in
simmering, whole as a skewer, and finely sliced in just about anything you
like.
Let’s start with simmering. Use this method when you want a gentle lemon
aroma and flavor in a dish with plenty of liquid, such as soups or braises.
To do this, trim the stalk to just the bottom six inches, then lay it flat
and pound it with a meat mallet or rolling pin until well bruised (to
release the flavor). Add the bruised stalks to the liquid and simmer for the
recipe’s normal cooking time. Discard the stalk before serving.
The whole stalks also can be used as skewers to lend a subtle flavor to
grilled meat. Just trim the stalks to the desired length, then thread
chicken or beef cubes over them. You may need to use a paring knife to poke
holes in the meat first.
For a more assertive flavor, trim away all but the bottom two to three
inches of the stalk, then peel away and discard the tough outer layers.
Slice the lemongrass crosswise very thin, then add to soups, stews, sautés,
and stir-fries. No need to fish it out.
Lemongrass pairs best with meat and seafood, as well as other signature
flavors of Southeast Asia, including ginger and coconut milk. It is
available all year in the grocer’s produce section. Look for firm stalks
that aren’t wilted or dried. It keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator.
* * *
Lemongrass Chicken Stir-fry
Start to finish: 20 minutes active (plus 1 hour
marinating)
Servings: 4
Two 4-inch pieces lemongrass, lightly crushed with a meat
mallet or rolling pin
1/4 cup canola oil, plus 2 tablespoons
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 tablespoon whole peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon dry ginger
3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds),
cut into 1-inch chunks
3 cups broccoli florets
2 red bell peppers, cored and cut into strips
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 cup cool water
Rice or egg noodles, to serve
* * *
In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the lemongrass, 1/4 cup
of the canola oil, and the wine. Heat to a low simmer, then set aside to
cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, in a spice grinder, combine the peppercorns, salt, garlic
powder, cumin, and ginger. Grind until reduced to a fine powder. Stir this
mixture into the oil and lemongrass mixture, then transfer the entire thing
to a large bowl. Add the chicken, toss to coat, then refrigerate for at
least one hour.
When ready to cook, heat a wok or large, deep sauté pan over medium-high.
Add the remaining two tablespoons of canola oil and heat until nearly
smoking.
Add the broccoli and red peppers and sauté until just starting to brown,
about five to six minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the vegetables to
a plate.
Discard the lemongrass from the chicken, then add the chicken to the pan,
reserving the marinade in the bowl. Cook until starting to brown, about 10
minutes.
Add the marinade from the bowl to the wok and bring to a boil. Cook for
two minutes. In a glass, mix together the cornstarch and water, then add to
the pan.
Cook until the sauce thickens, about another two minutes. Return the
vegetables to the pan and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Serve
over rice or noodles.
Nutrition information per serving (values are rounded to the nearest
whole number): 440 calories (210 calories from fat, 48 percent of total
calories); 24 g fat (2 g saturated, 0 g trans fats); 100 mg cholesterol; 10
g carbohydrate; 42 g protein; 4 g fiber; 610 mg sodium.
J.M. Hirsch is the national food editor for The Associated
Press.
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