
PUMPKIN TWIST. Halloween may be done, but pumpkin season rolls on. Canned
or fresh, pumpkin is full of carotenoids and fiber, and it boasts more
potassium than a banana. Pictured is a pumpkin treat with a Thai twist: Thai
Pumpkin Custard. (AP Photo/Matthew Mead)
From The Asian Reporter, V23, #22 (November 18, 2013), page 16.
A healthy, Thai take on the Thanksgiving pumpkin
By Sara Moulton
The Associated Press
Halloween may be done, but pumpkin season rolls on! And it’s a welcome
fact of life for a pumpkin lover like me.
I’m a fan of traditional American pumpkin pie, of course, but I also know
that pumpkin is versatile, and I thought I might be able to internationalize
it a little, too. This recipe, which reflects the influence of Thai cuisine,
is a good example. It stars Thai staples like kaffir lime leaves and coconut
milk, and complements them with fat-free evaporated milk.
I used to think Thai food owed almost all of its Thai-ness to lemongrass.
But that was before I learned about kaffir lime leaves. When I was finally
introduced to them, I was knocked out by the intensity and richness of their
scent and taste, and impressed by their ability to improve both sweet and
savory dishes.
I like to use them to infuse sugar syrup, then add it to lemonade or iced
tea. You can find kaffir lime leaves in Asian grocery markets, online, and
often at natural foods stores. You can find them fresh (they freeze and
store well), or even thinly sliced and jarred.
This recipe calls for canned pumpkin, an ingredient at which I used to
turn up my nose. Happily, I figured out after a while that pumpkins, like
tomatoes, don’t suffer from canning. They’re harvested at peak ripeness,
then cooked and canned immediately, which ensures that both flavor and
health benefits are retained.
Besides, who has the time to cut up, seed, cook, and purée fresh pumpkin,
especially when fresh pumpkin can be watery and lackluster? Still, be sure
to read the label. You want "solid pack" canned pumpkin with no added sugar,
salt, or other additives.
Deliciousness aside, pumpkin is a smart choice for dessert. Canned or
fresh, it’s full of carotenoids and fiber, and it boasts more potassium than
a banana. And a cup of canned pumpkin has just 80 calories.
We use fat-free evaporated milk because it has a lovely creaminess.
Combined with the coconut milk, as it is here, it delivers the kind of
creamy texture that defines a custard ... without all the fat and calories.
In the end, nobody will suspect that they’re digging into custard "lite."
Editor’s Note: Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine
for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows.
She currently stars in public television’s "Sara’s Weeknight Meals" and has
written three cookbooks, including Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family
Dinners.
* * *
Thai Pumpkin Custard
Start to finish:
7 hours, 30 minutes
(20 minutes active)
Servings: 6
3 large eggs
1/2 cup packed brown sugar, preferably dark
1/2 cup lite coconut milk
5 ounces fat-free evaporated milk
2 teaspoons finely minced Kaffir lime leaves
(or 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly grated lime zest)
1 1/2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons dark rum (optional)
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
extract
1/4 teaspoon table salt
1 cup pumpkin purée
Chopped crystallized ginger or toasted coconut, to garnish
Heat the oven to 350º Fahrenheit. Bring a kettle of water to a simmer.
In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the eggs. Add the brown
sugar and beat just until any lumps have dissolved. Add the coconut milk,
condensed milk, lime leaves, lime juice, rum (if using), vanilla seeds or
extract, salt, and pumpkin purée. Beat just until smooth.
Divide the mixture between six one-cup ramekins. Set the ramekins into a
rectangular baking pan (such as a lasagna pan), pour enough simmering water
into the baking pan to come half way up the sides of the ramekins.
Carefully transfer the baking pan to the oven’s middle shelf and bake
until a knife inserted at the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes.
Remove the ramekins from the water bath and cool on a wire rack. Cover with
plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled, about six hours. Serve each
portion topped with some of the crystallized ginger or coconut.
Nutrition information per serving: 170 calories (30 calories from fat, 18
percent of total calories); 3.5 g fat (1.5 g saturated, 0 g trans fats); 90
mg cholesterol; 26 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 23 g sugar; 6 g protein; 170
mg sodium.
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