
PHOTO CREDIT: AP Photo/Matthew Mead
From The Asian Reporter, V26, #22 (November 21, 2016), page 13.
Don’t settle for dull turkey gravy at Thanksgiving
By Sara Moulton
The Associated Press
Just because Thanksgiving mostly is about tradition doesn’t mean that we
aren’t open to going off script when it comes to side dishes and exactly how
to cook the big bird.
But the gravy? It’s where innovation goes to die! Generally, we’re
content to just pour some store-bought chicken broth, along with a little
butter and flour, into the pan in which the turkey was roasted, then call it
a day. In truth, I love pan gravy as much as anyone, but you can make a more
exciting gravy with just a little more work.
We were taught in cooking school that your sauce will only be as good as
the liquid you add to it. In the case of turkey gravy, that would be turkey
broth. What can be done to amp up its flavor?
To start, you want to brown the turkey parts that have been packed inside
the bird — the neck and the giblets (that is, the heart and the gizzards).
Then, slice off the bird’s wings — which nobody eats anyway — and add them
to the other parts. (Do not add the liver; it will make the stock bitter.
Instead, just reserve or freeze it until you can sauté it in butter and
serve it on toast. Yum!)
Browning these turkey parts in the company of some carrots and onions
develops complex flavors. This is called the Maillard reaction. It’s what
happens when amino acids combined with the sugars found in meat and many
vegetables are heated above 300º Fahrenheit. Concentrated juices from these
ingredients will collect in the bottom of the pan as you brown them. When
you deglaze the pan, you dissolve those juices and add them to the browned
ingredients, further deepening the stock’s flavor.
You may be surprised to find tomato paste among this recipe’s
ingredients, but tomatoes happen to be a terrific source of umami. Umami is
the fifth taste, after sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. It is usually
described as "meaty." The carrots in the stock also contribute umami.
Briefly sautéing the tomato paste in the skillet helps to brown it and
develop its natural sugars.
Having cooked up your stock in a separate pan, you’re eventually going to
want to add to it the juices that streamed out of the turkey while it
roasted and use the fat that accumulated in the pan while you basted the
bird. Again, this is how you intensify the gravy’s turkey flavor.
By the way, don’t despair if your turkey is missing the happy little
package of giblets and neck bone usually found inside the cavity; you’ll
still have the turkey wings. Just cut them off and supplement with some
chicken wings. You’ll need about eight ounces of poultry parts in total.
Finally, I recommend making the turkey stock a day or two in advance of the
feast. It will make the big day itself a little less stressful.
Sara Moulton is host of public television’s "Sara’s Weeknight Meals." She
was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent
a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including "Cooking Live." Her
latest cookbook is Home Cooking 101.
* * *
Bigger and Better Turkey Gravy
Start to finish: 4 hours 15 minutes (35 minutes active)
Makes 5 cups
The neck, wings, and giblets (about 8-ounces total) from
an 18- to 24-pound turkey
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, medium-chopped
1 medium carrot, medium-chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 tablespoon tomato paste
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
The drippings, 1/2 cup fat and pan juices from an 18- to
24-pound roasted turkey
Butter, melted (if there isn’t enough fat from the turkey
to make the gravy)
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons instant flour (such as Wondra)
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
Carefully chop the neck and wings into one-inch pieces and pat them and
the giblets dry. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add
the turkey pieces and giblets, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring
occasionally, until they are golden brown, eight to 10 minutes. Add the
onion, carrot, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the
vegetables are golden brown, about five minutes.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for one minute. Transfer the
mixture to a medium saucepan and add one cup of water to the skillet.
Deglaze the pan over high heat, scraping up the brown bits with a spatula,
until all the bits have been dissolved. Pour the mixture over the turkey
parts in the saucepan. Add the chicken broth and two cups water to the
saucepan.
Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, skimming the
scum that rises to the surface with a skimmer or slotted spoon, until there
is no more scum, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the celery, thyme, and bay leaf, then
simmer gently for two hours. Strain the stock through a colander, pressing
hard on the solids. Discard the solids and measure the stock; you should
have four cups. If you have more, return the liquid to the saucepan and
simmer until it is reduced to four cups. If you have less, add water to the
stock to make four cups. Cool, cover, and chill until it is time to make the
gravy.
When the turkey is cooked and resting on a platter, pour all the liquid
in the roasting pan into a fat separator or large glass measuring cup. Pour
or skim off the fat from the cup and reserve it; leave the cooking juices in
the fat separator. You will need 1/2 cup of the fat for the gravy; if you
don’t have 1/2 cup, supplement with melted butter.
Set the roasting pan on top of two burners set over medium-low heat. Add
the fat, followed by the flour. Whisk the mixture, preferably using a flat
whisk, for five minutes. Add the reserved cooking juices from the roasting
pan and two-thirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil,
whisking. If the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the
juices that accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt
and pepper.
Nutrition information per 1/4 cup: 70 calories (50 calories from fat, 71
percent of total calories); 6 g fat (1.5 g saturated, 0 g trans fats); 5 mg
cholesterol; 170 mg sodium; 4 g carbohydrate; 0 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 1 g
protein.
Mushroom Gravy
Proceed with the master recipe up to the point of adding the fat to the
roasting pan. Add half the fat and 1/3 cup minced shallots and cook over
medium heat, stirring, for three minutes. Add eight ounces of assorted
sliced mushrooms and one tablespoon chopped fresh thyme. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until the mushrooms are golden, about five minutes. Add the
remaining fat and the flour and cook, stirring, for five minutes. Add 1/3
cup dry sherry, Madeira, or tawny port, or 1/2 cup red wine (this is
optional; you can leave the alcohol out) along with the reserved cooking
juices and two-thirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil,
whisking. If the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the
juices that accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and
pepper.
Mustard-Herb Gravy
Proceed with the master recipe up through the point of cooking the fat
and flour for five minutes. Add 1/2 cup of dry white wine (this is optional;
you can leave the alcohol out) along with the reserved cooking juices and
two-thirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking. If
the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the juices that
accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting. Reduce the
heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Whisk in two tablespoons Dijon
mustard and two to four tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil, tarragon, or
sage. Season with salt and pepper.
* * *
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