
Elizabeth Karmel via AP
From The Asian Reporter, V28, #15 (August 6, 2018), page 13.
Don’t chase ice cream trucks — making it at home is easy
By Elizabeth Karmel
The Associated Press
Summer is synonymous with ice cream. And I think it would be safe to say
that it is a universal experience. But making ice cream at home has changed
since I was a child.
When we were young, my sisters and our cousins made hand-cranked ice
cream using a White Mountain Wooden Bucket Ice Cream Maker that used ice and
rock salt to freeze the ice cream. My grandmother loved having her grandkids
use the hand cranker. The wooden-bucket style ice-cream maker is still
popular today and comes with an electric motor, and the option of the hand
cranker for a nostalgic experience.
My mother used the electric motor exclusively and when she wanted to make
smaller quantities of ice cream, she used the electric machines with the
inserts that you leave in the freezer until you are ready to make ice cream.
I’ve used those models, but the truth is that I never have enough room to
leave the insert in the freezer for 24 or more hours, and so I rarely make
ice cream.
But every summer, I still have a yearning to make my own ice cream. Since
you can now buy ice cream machines that come with a compressor, I decided
that this summer I was going to start making ice cream at home.
With a self-refrigerating machine, you don’t have to plan in advance and
remember to freeze the insert, and you can create batch after batch if you
are making different flavors. The machine I chose after consulting a few ice
cream experts was the Cuisinart ICE-100. It is streamlined and doesn’t take
up too much room on the counter. It is also very simple to operate and works
like a dream.
The machine is mostly the compressor with a small bucket insert that
holds and churns the ice cream, and can be removed for easy cleaning. My ice
cream was ready in 45 minutes, and the timer can be set for up to 60
minutes.
Now that I had the machine, I needed a recipe. I decided to turn to my
friend David Lebovitz’ newly revised ice cream book, The Perfect Scoop.
This book has something for everyone! I grew up making custard ice creams
with egg yolks and David has very good instructions for these. He also has a
number of Philadelphia-style ice creams made without eggs, as well as frozen
yogurts, gelatos, sorbets, and so much more.
But what intrigued me the most were the ice creams with a fruit
component. Those he makes with a combination of sour cream and half-and-half
or heavy cream. When I asked him why he used sour cream as part of the dairy
component, he said, "I usually only use it with fruit because I want less
cream (and less fat) as it interferes with the refreshing nature of the
fruits and berries." The sour cream also contains "natural gums so it helps
keep the texture of the finished ice cream better."
That explanation made perfect sense to me and it only took me a second to
choose his Orange Popsicle Ice Cream. The six-ingredient recipe was easy,
chock full of quality ingredients, and immediately conjured memories of
summers past, ice cream trucks, and creamsicles. I couldn’t wait to make it.
I zested the oranges, juiced them, and put all the ingredients in a
blender to combine. It couldn’t have been easier. I put the mixture in the
refrigerator overnight and made the ice cream the next day. I poured the
mixture in the bucket, pressed the power button, set the timer, and before I
knew it, I had a softly frozen, smooth, and delicious ice cream that was
reminiscent of my favorite childhood treat.
Editor’s note: Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert.
She is the chef and pit master at online retailer
CarolinaCueToGo.com and the author of
three books, including Taming the Flame.
* * *
David Lebovitz’ Orange Popsicle Ice Cream
(Adapted from The Perfect Scoop)
Servings: 6 (makes about 1 quart)
Start to finish: 1 hour
2/3 cup granulated white sugar
Zest of 3 large oranges, zested with a microplane
1 1/4 cups freshly squeezed orange juice from 4-5 large
oranges
1 cup full-fat sour cream
1/2 cup half-and-half
2 teaspoons Grand Marnier
In a blender, pulverize sugar and zest until well mixed. Add the orange
juice, sour cream, half-and-half, and Grand Marnier. Blend until the sugar
is completely dissolved. I use the smoothie function.
Chill the mixture in your refrigerator according to the manufacturer’s
instructions — most machines specify how long you need to chill the mixture.
The Cuisinart ICE-100 states that you don’t need to refrigerate the mixture,
but I like to make the ice cream mixture the day before I make it and let
the flavors chill and marry overnight in the refrigerator.
Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions and transfer to a
glass or plastic container and keep in the freezer until ready to serve.
Nutrition information per serving: 223 calories (81 calories from fat); 9
g fat (6 g saturated, 0 g trans fats); 34 mg cholesterol; 23 mg sodium; 31 g
carbohydrate; 0 g fiber; 29 g sugar; 2 g protein.
* * *
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