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ICONIC CARTON. It’s an icon, that small white receptacle made from a
single piece of cardboard folded into a trapezoid-shaped box. Sometimes
there’s a wire handle, sometimes a bright red graphic of a Chinese-style
pagoda on the side. And inside, deliciousness. Pictured is a Chinese
takeout container with fried rice inside. (AP Photo/Dario Lopez-Mills)
From The Asian Reporter, V36, #11 (November 2, 2026), page 15.
A humble oyster pail turned takeout icon: The American
story of the Chinese food carton
By Deepti Hajela
The Associated Press
NEW YORK — It’s an icon, that small white receptacle made from a
single piece of cardboard folded into a trapezoid-shaped box. Sometimes
there’s a wire handle, sometimes a bright red graphic of a Chinese-style
pagoda on the side. And inside, deliciousness.
The Chinese takeout container — at least, as it’s commonly seen in
the United States — is actually about as American as it gets, with its
mix of ingenuity, immigrant cultures becoming homegrown staples, and the
desire for convenience (also known as sitting at home in your PJs.)
The idea of what is essentially a paper bucket dates to 1894, when
inventor Frederick Weeks Wilcox was granted a patent for what he called
"a new and useful improvement" for pails used to carry oysters. A single
piece of material would be folded in such a way that it would have
structural stability while also limiting the ways it could leak, and
also incorporate a lid.
That’s the container. What about the contents we
assume are inside it?
Chinese immigrants started coming to the U.S. in the mid-1800s,
taking part in the Gold Rush and working to help build the railroads.
The communities they created, known as Chinatowns, rose up in places
like San Francisco and later around the country. They included eating
spots where the foundations of an Americanized style of Chinese food was
laid.
After World War II, there was a "real profusion of Chinese
restaurants, diversifying away from just chop suey and chow mein ... we
see this explosion of interest and growth in Chinese food," says
Michelle King, professor of Chinese history at the University of North
Carolina at Chapel Hill.
Crucially, it was also the start of an association in the public mind
of Chinese food with cheaper prices, availability, and convenience, she
said. And restaurant owners wanted to be considered accessible, for
which takeout played a part, she said. "You need to take it home, you
have a dinner party you want to cater for, we can do that for you,
right?" King says.
At some point in the 1970s, at a packaging company then known as
Fold-Pak, the pagoda design was added, sometimes along with words
printed in a font used to stereotypically evoke an association with
Chinese culture.
"It kind of becomes claimed as a Chinese American food eatery item,
like the pizza box or something like that might be for Italian food,"
King said.
These days, takeout cartons come in a variety of shapes, and the food
landscape has expanded to include a range of cuisines that might show up
in the former oyster pail.
Even so, it IS still an icon — quite literally. Check your emojis for
"takeout."
This story is part of a recurring series, "American Objects," marking
the 250th anniversary of the United States.
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its entirety!
Go to <www.asianreporter.com/completepaper.htm>!
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